The Lens

Exploring the Peruvian Andes - Apu Ausangate route with Andean Lodges.

Sixteen years have passed since I first walked on the Apu Ausangate, the highest peak in Cusco, and found out the power of this stunning mountain and the beauty and resilience of the communities that live here.

In Andean cosmovision, Apus are powerful mountain deities and spiritual leaders, and Ausangate is considered the most important one: it is the “creator of water”. This Apu is said to give life to the Vilcanota river which, on its path through the Pachamama (Mother Earth), renders the lands fertile as it continues to flow towards the vast Amazon Basin. Andeans believe these waters returns every night converted into stars and replenish the lakes and sacred ice of the mountain.

But apart from its spiritual importance, the region where Apu Ausangate lies is of incredible biological value, housing glaciers and supporting a wide array of ecosystem services. Established as a Regional Conservation Area in 2019, it is home to several endemic species of flora and spectacular wildlife, with over 110 species of birds - including Andean geese, the majestic Andean condors, giant hummingbirds and migratory wetland birds - as well as beautiful vicuñas, viscachas, foxes and the elusive Andean cat, an endangered species.

This is also the land of ancestral llama and alpaca herders and it is also believed that from Apu Ausangate sacred lakes  llamas and alpacas emerged to feed, transport goods and keep warm the people of this area where agriculture is virtually non existent.  These communities are also heir to an ancient and magnificent textile traditions that use distinctive techniques and iconography.

Two of these communities, Chillca and Osefina, decided to improve their livelihoods without giving up their culture and traditional way of life, and were keen to get involved in tourism and trekking experiences and this was the spark that initiated Andean Lodges.  This novel trekking follows four tambo-like lodges, where llamas and alpacas from the nearby communities serve as “porters” and where Chillca and Osefina communities host visitors sharing with them their culture and knowledge of these lands.

Despite their proximity to tourist meccas like Machu Picchu and Cusco, this trekking circuit and lodges lie in a pristine and remote mountain region - the lodges are actually some of the highest of their kind in the world! Sitting between 4,350 masl (14,200ft) and 4,850 masl (15,900 feet), all four are within a day’s walking distance from each other - just like Incan tambos - and reachable in approximately six hours at the most. And, of course, they all face impressive snow-capped peaks, glaciers, and the mighty Apu Ausangate itself.

It’s not every day that you get to share a trekking experience with some of the last living llama and alpaca herders in the world. And the best part is that, by doing so, you are actively contributing to preserving the ancient traditions of the communities of Chillca and Osefina, and having a positive impact on their development. The Andean Lodges venture is deeply committed to sustainable and socially responsible tourism, and the project has thus far created 24 full-time jobs and over 70 casual jobs for community members. Moreover, it has created a market for their alpaca meat and fleece products as well as for the gorgeous traditional woven textiles, manufactured by expert women of Chillca and Osefina.

We are thrilled to have this one of a kind trek as the first Peruvian enterprise to be part of our Tropic Collection, a curated selection of locally owned, owner-operated sustainable properties in South America.

This lodge-to-lodge treks offer awe-inspiring, off-the beaten-path experiences, and are ideal  to connect with locals while exploring remote areas. Our exclusive circuit is located roughly 100 km south-east of Cusco, and is accessed from  the small town of Checacupe, in the Vilcanota Valley.

The core Andean Lodges itinerary is the Apu Ausangate and Rainbow Mountain trail, a breathtaking 5D/4N adventure along the Cordillera Vilcanota. We’ll trek in close proximity to the highest sacred mountain in the Cusco region and get amazing views of the Rainbow Mountain - minus the flocks of tourists.

There are fixed departures every Friday for this trek  as well as for a shorter, 3D version. Private Departures can be shorter, 2D to see Rainbow Mountain, or longer (6D, 7D)  to explore the surrounding peaks and glaciers.

If you are interested in exploring and promoting this unique trek please reach to us at Tropic Travel: [email protected]

As it has done for me during the several times I have walked it, this memorable journey will nurture your soul as you experience an authentic connection with other cultures, with nature and with yourself. As the trip comes to an end, you’ll leave with a powerful sense of accomplishment and a full heart.

by: Maru de Aliaga